Laoshan Mountain

Laoshan MountainMount Laoshan, or Mount Lao, since "shan" means mountain, is China's largest coastal mountain range, lying roughly midway along Shandong Peninsula's southern, or the Yellow Sea, coastline. Mount Lao comprises the landmass that juts out into the Yellow Sea northeast of Jiaozhou Bay, just beyond the city of Qingdao, in a northeasterly direction.

Mount Laoshan consists of numerous mountains, including Mount Fu, Mount Zao'er, Mount Shuangfeng, Mount Dading, and Mount Taizi. Not surprisingly, given its close proximity to a major metropolis, Mount Lao is one of China's major scenic resorts. Its highest peak lies at 1133 meters above sea level. The mountain spans some 450 square kilometers, and since it juts out into the sea (it has a coastline of about 87 kilometers), it is home to 13 bays and coves, dotted with 18 islets, making Mount Lao China's foremost coastal mountain tourist resort.

Taoism

Mount Lao is one of the birthplaces of Taoism. As one of China's major scenic resorts, Mount Lao boasts 2 scenic sites for every square kilometer (218 such sites in all), many of them of Taoist origin, though many of the mountain's more ancient Taoist sites, including several temples, monasteries, and nunneries belonging to ancient Taoist palace complexes, no longer exist. For example, in its heyday, Mount Lao is claimed to have been the site of no less than 9 palace complexes - some with monasteries and some also with nunneries, and each with its own temple - as well as 8 separate temples to which a smaller group of Taoist monks or nuns were attached, earning the mountain the title of "Second Monastery of the Taoist Quanzhen Sect". In all, there were over 1000 Taoist monks and nuns living and worshipping on Mount Lao.

Of the surviving Taoist temple complexes on Mount Lao, Taiqing (alternatively, Xiaqing) Palace, erected during the Northern Song (CE 960-1127) Dynasty, is the largest. In the courtyard of its Sanhuang ("Three Emperors") Hall stand two ancient cypress trees, reputed to have been planted during the Han (BCE 206 - CE 220) Dynasty. Buddhism had of course long since established itself in China by the time of the Northern Song Dynasty, but since the new religion spread from west to east, as part of the "collateral damage", as it were (such as an ardent Taoist might look upon it!), of the Silk Road traffic, it took some time before Buddhism managed to crowd out Taoism (Taoism was eventually suppressed during the Qing Dynasty), though Taoism was never completely extinguished, as pockets of it survive to this day, both in China as well as abroad.

It may strike the uninformed as odd that Taoism would have nuns while Buddhism doesn't, but the difference lies mainly in the fact that Taoism, unlike Buddhism, does not promote asceticism, or "the denial of the flesh" - Taoists are to Buddhists, in this regard, as Christian preachers are to Catholic priests, the latter of whom practice celibacy. In fact, it is said that as Buddhism crowded out Taoism, Taoists increasingly resorted to the practice of recruiting beautiful women as nuns, as a means to compete with Buddhism for the affections of the masses, since ordinary people would flock to a Taoist temple just to get a glimpse of a beautiful woman! (Little has changed since in the mind of man, eh?!)

It might also strike the uninformed as odd that an ascetic religion (though Buddhism is less ascetic than its forerunner, Hinduism) could crowd out an essentially philosophical, non-ascetic religion like Taoism, but the secret to understanding this conundrum lies in the fact that while Taoism promoted independent thinking, Buddhism, as it was practiced in China (Buddhism made many compromises in China, even embracing many Taoist precepts, in order to ease its way into the psychic of the Chinese people) promoted devotion to the emperor, who was seen as a sort of divinity on earth. For this reason, Chinese emperors saw a handy tool in Buddhism and therefore embraced it at the expense of Taoism.

Since Taoists saw themselves as children of the universe, they were intrigued by tall mountains of striking beauty - they were less attracted to quiet as to dramatic places of natural beauty. Mount Lao was just such a dramatic place. But perhaps Mount Lao's seaside location - with a view not only on the sea to the east and on the land to the west, but also on beautiful Jiaozhou Bay to the southwest - explains some of the mountain's hold over its admirers. Some of the more famous Chinese emperors - and ardent Taoists - who frequented Mount Lao were Emperor Shi Huang Di (aka Emperor Qin) of the Qin (BCE 221-207) Dynasty (he was the sole ruler of the Qin Dynasty) and many, if not most, of the emperors of the Han Dynasty.

Immortality was one of the obsessions of Taoism, and emperors naturally found this appealing; both emperors and "commoners" would therefore come to holy places like Mount Lao, either in hopes of an encounter with an immortal or in search of a potion that could bestow immortality upon those lucky enough to discover it. To this day, many gamblers pay a visit to Mount Lao in the hope of being blessed with, if not immortality, then at least its half-sister, lady luck, and even Tsingtao Brewery, maker of Tsingtao Beer, is proud to tap into (no pun intended) the myths surrounding Mount Lao, since the water the brewery uses for its famous beer stems from the famous mountain and next-door neighbor to the city of Qingdao.

Buddhism eventually arrived on Mount Lao. The 4th century CE Chinese Buddhist pilgrim and author of the famous Buddhistic travel diary, A Record of Buddhistic Kingdoms, Fa Xian, sought refuge in one of Mount Lao's coves after a harrowing sea journey from Ceylon (present-day Sri Lanka) that lasted for months, during what must have been the typhoon season, and he remained in Shandong Province for a year during this, the turn of the 5th century CE, spreading the teachings of Buddhism. Under Fa Xian's instructions, Shifo Temple was erected on Mount Lao. During the latter part of the Northern Wei (CE 386-533) Dynasty, Fahai Temple was also built on the mountain, which is seen as a watershed moment, after which Buddhism began to increase there, though Taoism still reigned on Mount Lao. Buddhism reached its peak on Mount Lao during the Ming (CE 1368-1644) Dynasty.

Natural Tourist Attractions

Mount Lao is known for its ancient trees, its crystal-clear springs, its pleasingly rounded, time-hewn boulders and rock outcroppings, and the contrastingly odd-shaped boulders that lie at its feet on the mountain's coastal side, boulders that have been eroded into strange shapes by the action of aeons of crashing waves. Among the smooth boulders and stone outcropping farther up the mountain grow densely packed pine trees, and in the few green clearings where trees do not grow, sprout seas of flowers that blossom in a myriad of colors each spring and early summer. Mount Lao is a sublime beauty old mountain - a talisman for the gods, one is tempted to say - which is probably what attracted men to it.

How to Get There?

There are special tour buses from Qingdao to Mount Lao for 1-day, 2-day, or 3-day trips (there are also ample accommodations on the mountain, and in most price classes - see below). There are also numerous bus routes from the larger Qingdao area to the smaller villages round about the mountain. For example:

• Bus no. 104 from Taidong to Liuqing River;
• Bus no. 104 from Taidong to Liuqing River;
• Bus no. 110 from Taidong to Beijiushui;
• Bus no. 301 from Tuandao to Shazikou;
• Bus no. 304 from the Ferry Port to Yakou;
• Bus no. 311 from Tuandao to Beijiushui;
• Bus no. 312 from Tuandao to Yangkou;
• Bus no. 106 from Licun to Yakou;
• Bus no. 107 from Licun to Beijiushui;
• Bus no. 112 from Licun to Daglaoguan;
• Bus no. 113 from Licun to Liuqing River, and there are several more.

One may also catch one of several special tour buses to Mount Lao Scenic Area from the bus stop near Zhanqiao Pier, but because most of these tour buses are operated privately, it is a good idea to find out in advance whether the bus fare includes the entrance fee to the mountain's sightseeing area, or areas (it is, in some cases, but to be on the safe side, always ask!). With many tour operators, the admission fee of all of the destination attractions along a given route is an integral part of the bus fare, where multiple stops/ sites are concerned.

In addition, many of the larger tourist hotels offer package deals where day trips - including the admission fee to the scenic sites in question - are offered. Almost all tourist hotels in Qingdao offer such package deals, in fact. Most independent tour operators, in contrast, offer only tours to the main tourist center on Mount Laoshan, namely, Taiqing Palace. So remember, if you plan to be staying at a hotel in Qingdao during your visit to Mount Lao, then you should first check out the package deals that your hotel can offer before arranging tours with independent tour operators. On the other hand, if you plan to "wing it" (hop from spot to spot), overnighting where you happen to land, then the independent tour operator is your ticket.

More Tips

1) Accommodations - Note that the Mount Lao Scenic Resort Area, which comprises several smaller scenic areas such as Taiqing Scenic Area, Liuqing Scenic Area, Yangkou Scenic Area, and Beijiushui Scenic Area, is an immensely huge geographical area, with hundreds of scenic sites on and around the mountain range, including countless charming villages. There are buses from Qingdao to all of these villages and sightseeing areas. Mount Lao Scenic Resort Area commands some 40 hotels in various price classes, so one need not return to Qingdao each night, but can hop from site to site.

2) The weather/ Best visiting times - The best period to visit the Mount Lao area is June through September. The average temperature on Mount Lao varies from 20-28 degrees Celsius (68-83 degrees Fahrenheit) during this period. Generally speaking, Mount Lao is seldom covered in clouds, though early-morning mists, which are generally quickly burnt off by the sun, are not uncommon; it is, therefore, the rare day when the visitor is unable to climb the main peak of Mount Lao due to adverse weather conditions.

3) Festivals - A Mountaineering Festival on Mount Lao is held in April each year. The program includes a Mountaineering Competition as well as a tour of Mount Lao. In addition, a Sea-Sacrifice Festival is held between the Qingming and the Guyu Festival of the Chinese Lunar Calendar, when natives of the Mount Lao region hold local ceremonies to celebrate the Sea-Sacrifice. The sacrifices include pork, chicken, fish, steamed bread, and candy. The ceremony traditionally begins with the lighting of large red candles and a fireworks display. Lastly, a Cherry Fair is held in May each year to commemorate the ripening of cherries in the Mount Lao area. You are sure to meet new, exciting people during a festival!

4) A pick-me-upper - Tea is grown on Mount Lao, so if you happen to be feeling a bit stressed or exhausted, pop into any local tea shop and try a refreshing cup of Laoshan Tea!